I am upgrading my ignition using the Pertronix and I also want to install their Flamethrower coil. The installation instructions state that I must remove the ballast resistor on the input so that I have 12V there. I measured just over 5V, so the resistance wire is there in the system. But where is it and how do I (easily) bypass it?

The diagram in the Shop Manual suggests that it is the entire wire that runs straight from the ignition switch, does that mean I have to disconnect it at the ignition switch and run a new wire from there?

Some 65 T-Birds have a form of electronic ignition. Look inside your distributor and see if there is a set of points but no condenser and at the ignition coil to see if the NEG terminal is connected to the coil mounting bracket (grounded); if so that is what you have. This system has a brown colored fiberglass cover mounted to the right inner fender just behind the battery. Remove the cover and you will find a set of ballast resistors. Use your volt meter at these connections and you will find the ignition key switched 12 volts you are looking for.
This system can also be bypassed under the cover using a universal 12 volt ignition ballast resistor and running a wire (16 or 18 AWG) from the IGN terminal of the starter relay. Hook the new wire from the starter relay to the same side as the factory wire going to the ignition coil battery terminal (use your ohm meter to locate) on the new ignition ballast resistor (this gives a full 12 volts to help starting). The other side of the new ignition ballast resistor connects to the 12 volts factory wire that is switched on-off by the key. At the igniton coil (I used a 12 volt universal external resistor type replacement coil) remove the negative wire that is hooked to ground. Make a new wire (16 or 18 AWG) to connect the coil negative terminal to the distributor ingition point set terminal going through the hole in the distributor housing. Mount a regular stock type ignition condensor (find a suitable mounting screw that you will need) inside the distributor in its normal location (condensor wire hooked to ignition points terminal with wire from coil NEG terminal and your ready to go. Its best to have a timing light ready to adjust the timing.
Pensacola, FL

Thank you for your considered reply to my question.

My 65 does not have the transistorized ignition (I double checked the distributor and the condenser is there). The voltage I measured was the same at the coil positive input and at the starter relay ignition terminal. That terminal connects back to the ignition switch via the red/green wire which I have traced to the bulkhead disconnect and then disappears behind the dash. I concluded then that the resistance is close to the ignition switch, but the shop manual seems to indicate that the brown wire running from the IGN post of the starter relay was the resistance wire. My first thought was to run a new wire from the relay, but since the voltage at the relay is also only about 5V, the resistance must be closer to the ignition switch.

The shop manual talks about the resistance wire and even about replacing it if the voltage is too high, but it carefully avoids telling me how.

Section 9, Fig 1, of the shop manual shows a wire running from the ignition switch to the coil and then to the starter relay. There is also something drawn that could be interpreted as a resistor, or just a connector, between the ignition and the coil. In my case, the wire from the ignition runs to the starter relay first.

Richard,
I installed the pertonix and flame thrower coil on my 65 without changing the power supply from stock. The car did not idle well or run as well as I had hoped. I ended up running a new power supply to the coil off the voltage regulator. If I recall it is the green wire with the black stripe. Made a huge difference. The stock wire from the switch is a resistor wire. You will want to test the wire off the voltage regulator to be sure you are using a switched 12V source. But, like I said, I think it is green w/ black stripe (good place to start anyway).
Good Luck!

Bob Anderson
65 HT
Poynette, WI

Bob

Many thanks. It is actually Green/Red, and it is indeed switched. I'll splice in there.

Richard

Hi Richard,
Just a bit of info.
Car manufactures continued to use 6 volt coils for many years after they went to 12 volts.
The reason behind this is that when you start the car the voltage can drop as low as 9 volts.
The coil puts out less when you need it most.
By using a 6 volt coil with 6 volt drop over the resistor you can cut out the resistor when the starter is engaged (why the wire goes to the starter selenoid). Giving 9 volts to a 6 volt coil is a real boost just when you need it most.
Your new Peritonix coil is made for 12 volts and will need the full voltage. (no resistor).
I've done the Ignitor swap on many old cars its a really good investment, always a good improvment.
Wear on the points cam loobs and worn shaft bearings have no infuence on timing.

Thanks Bob for the interesting background info.

I installed the Flamethrower coil and the Pertronix Igniter. The car started first time (never done that before, even in summer. Today it was about -2) and runs much better. Very obviously an excellent upgrade.

The Igniter was a breeze to install, except for one small irritating issue. The connectors on the wires to the coil do not fit through the hole in the side of the distributor. You have to cut them off and install new ones. Not a big deal if you have a supply of connectors on hand, but you'd think Pertronix would simply leave the wires bare and give you the connectors.

I also installed the Crane Cams adjustable vacuum advance kit while I had the distributor apart. Very simple installation and it looks a lot sharper than my grungy old one. Now I can amuse myself playing with the various advance springs and adjusting the vacuum advance.

I'll probably pop the distributor out next and buff it up so that it gleams like (better than) new, to complete the job.

Keeps me out of mischief.

OK gang I need some assistance in an ignition problem solving delema. A while ago I installed a Pertronix ignitor in my 390 FE T-Bird. Motor ran beautifully. Then while doing other work I changed out the plug wires for Accel 8 MM super wires, added a new Accel Super coil and a quality distributor cap now the girl wont start.

My bird came with the points and condensor standard ignition set up and if a ballast resistor exists it's still in the system. I didn't have to change anything for her to run with the Pertronix set up before.

I get great fire from the coil and fire to the plugs but I'm not sure how strong it is at the plugs. Wires are routed correctly.

Any ideas that might help?

Ken

I have installed the Pertronix on my 66 plus flame thrower coil. The instructions that came with my kit says "if your system has a ballast resitor do NOT REMOVE IT. I followed the instrutions and the engine runs fine

Joe