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Hi, I am rebuilding my 66 Tbird 428 engine and need rocker arm shaft springs. As I took apart the shaft to clean them I found several springs broken and just don't feel good about replacing them on the new shaft.

Thanks in advance,
Rome.
 
Posts: 9 | Location: ATL | Registered: April 23, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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No offense but, your post is a bit puzzling. Are you looking for replacement springs or alternatives to them? The springs are a not commonly advertised but I think they can be obtained, perhaps from Ford. If it were my engine, I'd substitute solid aluminum spacers for the springs. These are availble from several after market vendors. I hope you have a good machinist lined up that knows how to build FE's. These are great engines but they have a few areas that need careful attention. Good luck with the rebuild.
 
Posts: 75 | Location: Federal Way, WA | Registered: March 12, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi, and thanks for the reply. I am looking for replacement OEM springs. I am rebuilding the engine myself and is interested in your comment on spacers as well as the attention needed in the rebuild. This is my first time attempting an engine and transmission rebuild however I have/am reading an FE engine and C6 transmission book(s) to walk me through it. Also I just ASSUMED without checking with FORD that they no longer had that part. I will contact them and also do some research on the spacers you mentioned.

Any input or suggestions on my rebuild is welcomed, I will be starting on the assembly after I figure what to do about these rocker shaft springs. This will kinda be a daily driver with a few 200 mile trips here and there.

Here is a list of mods and parts bought so far over the last year to get the bird running good:

# Edelbrock top end; Alum heads, chrome valve covers, alum intake, Performer Series 750 carb and chrome air-cleaner, alum water pump and cam#1206 & lifters, all Edelbrock.
# Specs on cam - 194/204 adv. duration, 194/204 at .050", 460/480 lift, 110/105 lobe sep., smooth idling cam for daily driving.
# Griffin alum radiator w/electric fan
# Billet electronic dist and 6AL high current box, blaster2 coil and 8mm wires.
# ARP bolts; mains, head, cam, cam thrust plate and flex plate.
# 100 AMP Chrome alternator
# new Melling HV57 high volume oil pump, pickup and oil pump drive shaft
# Ford Racing windage tray
# new Engine oil cooler shared with tranny
# new Melling non-adjustable rockers
# new push rods
# new Sealed Power rocker arm shafts
# Fel Pro full gasket set with upgraded head/intake gasket and copper exhaust gasket
# Cloyes True double roller timing set
# Pioneer brass freeze plugs
# Clevite 77 rod bearings
# Clevite 77 main bearings
# KeithBlack Silvolite cast pistons 60
# Perfect Circle cast rings 60
# Moroso high flow oil filter
# New stainless engine bolt kit
# FLOWMASTER Performance mufflers
# modified OilPan for oil temp sensor
# I modified the block for true crankshaft alignment by modifying the engine's oiling system because ALL FE engines(390/428) except the famous 427, oil mains didn't line up on numbers 1,2 and 4. I also widened the oil pump intake and exhaust to block hole to 1/2" for more volume.

TRANSMISSION Upgrades:

# C-6 High Performance Transmission Super Master Kit with Alto Red Eagle Clutches, Kolene Steel Plates and Performance Front Band (red lined)
# New 1ST AND 2ND Low ratio sun gears and planetary set for better low-end performance
# HUGHES PERFORMANCE Torque Converter 2200 - 2500 RPM stall
# B&M Shift kit
# PERMA-COOL external trans filter system
# temp sensor added
 
Posts: 9 | Location: ATL | Registered: April 23, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Cheapest way to do it is to go to a junkyard, get some springs off an old FE engine, throw them in a can of carb cleaner and let em sit for a while, take em out and throw em on. Thats what I'd do.
 
Posts: 31 | Location: Anchorage, AK/Naches, WA | Registered: April 07, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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UTC428, in view of the parts you are using, the stock rocker shaft springs would be a definite step backward. I would use the solid aluminum spacers and up grade the rocker arms to factory adjustable types with Crane locking adjusters. This is a relatively inexpensive improvement that will maximize the benefits from your cam. The adjustable type rockers have a higher ratio which will net a bit more lift and duration at the valve. Of course you can step up to a aluminum roller type rocker arm but that is considerably more expensive.
There are many more details to consider and quite beyond the scope of this forum. I suggest you check out the Ford FE Big Block Forum at: http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/ I have been hanging out on that site for years and have learned a ton. There are all levels of gearheads on that forum from beginners to some really serious hardcore types. It is searchable by topic and very active. Be prepared to take notes as well. I have a loose leaf binder that I write all my part numbers and such in and it is nearly at capacity.
BTW, there is a Ford transmission forum as well. Good stuff there too. You do know that the 1966 C-6 was kind of problem prone. It was the first year for that piece and in fact, some early production 1966 'birds didn't get them. I think you can swap out the valve body for a later version but I'm not 100% sure about that. My '66 Landau's transmission is still operating fine but when it goes, I will replace it completely with a later unit and possibly a Gear Vendors OD. It never ends with these cars!
Good luck on your project. It sounds like it should be a dandy!
 
Posts: 75 | Location: Federal Way, WA | Registered: March 12, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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