Terence - There is nowhere on the engine that will say 390. This is a quote from my last post. "The block numbers as I mentioned are usually on the passenger side below the exhaust manifolds and are often times under the starter. That will be the longer text ie. C6AE-xxxx. You also should try to find the date code on the block ie. 5C27. It is a little harder to find, the block has bosses on it, or small ledge extensions in the casting, there are usually 4 on the FE, right,left, front and back. The date is usually cast on top of this boss and is usually on one of the passenger side bosses."

To have any possibility of identifying this engine short of tearing it down you will need to see if you can find those numbers as described.

We all had to ask questions and listen and read to learn this stuff, there are no dumb questions so don't worry about asking. What I can tell you so far from the heads and intake is they are a common 1968 passenger car offering. At this point the block is going to be the deal breaker for us so to speak, since the engine is on a stand and the starter would be off it should be very easy to find the block numbers. Also take a look at the back of the block and look for a large upside down "A" or a "C" these look like welds not like a stamped or neat lettering and would be an inch or or two tall. Hang in there, it's not over yet.

4-5-6- birdman, I will check again, i checked yesterday with a flashlight and couldnt find any numbers except for under the oil filter pump housing area, but i wont and havent given up, i will check even closer this time, I know i must be missing it. Cant see as well as i used too, so might have to have one of the kids help look closer. My fingers are certainly crossed that its a 390.
Again, thank you for your help and i will post it here asap!
Terry

Terence,

I thought you were getting a '63 donor car with a complete 390 in it. Are you trying to figure out what you have out of determined curiosity? Or is this your back up in case the other '63 doesn't work out or engine is a junker?

It may be nice to know all but if you are going to sell the engine, I can't imagine a prospect is going to care a lot.

FYI, the C8##### indicates some or all of the engine is from a '68 not a '66 as you were told by the seller but we already figured out this guy wasn't reliable.

Good Luck and enjoy.

Hi vince, no you are/were correct, i was supposed to purchase this car with the engine and parts, but this time i brought a friend along, it turns out the intake is a 2bbl intake on a 390 engine sitting in this 61 t-bird, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO more of this. The intake helps me out for my valve covers (original t-bird) but the fricken intake is a 2bbl, WHAT IS GOING ON!! The owner got the car from a salvage yard and says he no's nothing, AS IS SALE! 2bbl intake with a 2bbl carb on it. Let me re phrase that we believe its a 390 from how all hoses and everything hooks up, but then we get to the intake and carb! So now, i will let this car go, because i dont really need the parts although they would come in handy, time to find a junker 390 and do what u all have suggested or rebuild what i have, or buy a new long block 390 and go from there! The ebay thing is fine, but the shipping and etc truly isnt for me, so being that i have time and shouldnt rush on such a great project for me, i will weigh all options, even purchasing a short block 390 and using the heads from my engine. So many options, but no decision has been made!
Again, you guys are so helpful, but im back to square one!
Terence

If you have the car running, why not enjoy as it is while you do your engine search. If it looks a little funky to you, dress it with an aftermarket, chrome/stainless steel air filter cover. (Make sure to get a filter short enough to let you close the hood.) Only a TBirder would know and only if you raise the hood.

There's a '63 4bbl 390 out there for you somewhere.

I have to agree with Vince, sometimes we can get buried in the details and forgot the aim. Enjoy your classic bird even if it's got the wrong parts on it. If I remember correctly the engine is on an engine stand already, but does it need to be freshened up? Was it working OK when removed? I was still waiting to get the casting numbers off the block to see if we could indentify it. Either way if you need input let us know. Good Luck!!

Car is not running and yes birdman you are correct, the engine is on a stand. I have a rod knock so i figured its probably best to get the engine rebuilt or purchase another. The engine was running ok, but not to my liking. Im not looking for perfection, but defintitly want the car to purrrrrrrrrrrr. I agree with you both when you say getting caught up on all the small stuff, when i probably should get it to my desired liking and drive it, but to be honest, just looking on all the t-bird sites and how lovely these birds look, it really makes me wanna have in fine condition, would just hate to have a nice looking car with a horrible running engine and that rod knock, definitly made me stop in my tracks. Quick question, IS A ROD KNOCK CONTINUOUS OR IT CAN BE INTERMEDIATE??? at times! I can say i have my decision dwindled down to the final 2, an that is rebuild the one i have or by a small block and re-use my heads. Oneday this bird will be on the road and when that day comes, my wife and I plan on taking a lovely cruise down to monterey and SF and just have fun fun fun! THANKS GUYS and a little help on the rod knock question would be truly appreciated!
Terence

You need to be very careful in identifying a rod knock. Often times the culprit is the fuel pump, this has bit me twice in the last 30 years. Once on a Chevy and once on a 302 Ford, the noises can be so very similar to a wrist pin and come from the lower mid section of the crankcase like a rod or a wrist pin noise. Even when using a stethoscope it is nearly impossible to distinguish. When in doubt I would surely reccommend at least pulling the pump for inspection.

Generally a rod knock is caused by a spun bearing which will also have made a change or variance in oil pressure, usually you will see the pressure bouncing under a load. The wrist pin knock is also pretty common but will produce a sharper rap and usually will maintain good pressure. Generally speaking the rod knock doesn't come and go, once you have it you got it. It is a very bad thing to let it go unattended as there is nothing like a ventilated block that puked all it's oil through a gaping hole in the side!!

I would still like to have you get the numbers off the block if you get a chance. Let us know if we can help, sounds like your on the right path with a good attitude.

Stay with me here birdman, im in need of more clarification. This knock i speak of is not continuous and it seems to come and go, although never go for a long time. The pin wrist pin you spoke of, what exactly is that and how does the knock sound or is it continuous. The fuel pump, what happens with that to make it sound like a rod knock and is it continuous or intermediate? I can tell you that the rod knock was never there until the car sat for awhile and when we tried starting it (not in the correct procedure for when a car sits for quite awhile) thats when it started. I kinda thought maybe something was stuck or whatever. I am truly in your hands on this one, just begging for info :-) and i am gonna re-check the block again for these numbers. HELP birdman! It would be great to know it was just a fuel pump or something. I will check back here to see if youve replied!
You and everyone are a true blessing!!!!!

oops sorry birdman, on not reading more carefully, i just go so excited when you told me it might knock be a rod because it doesnt normally come and go, but would a rod knock continue to knock at all times? This knock i speak off, will knock intermediately and also with a good sounding pang or ping. What should i check on the fuel pump to know if its bad and would it knock like i speak of? Sorry i have never heard of a wrist pin knock, is this something easy to fix? If its fuel pump, do i just replace? Sorry for so many questions, but you have given me a new life here, because i truly wasnt sure if it was a rod knock, i thought rod knocks would continue to knock at all times. IM LEARNING BIRDMAN, IM TRULY LEARNING! Block numbers will be found this time, even if i have to get a magnifying glass. :-)

Terence - The fuel pump arm is a fulcrum that rides against and eccentric off the front of the cam shaft. If you pull off the fuel pump you can depress the arm and check it for excess slop, if you are not sure how much play it should have go to an auto parts store and compare yours to theirs. If the engine sat for a long time you will usually have some noise on start up. Most will go away by the time the engine gets up to temperature, such as lifters that have bled down, wrist pins that are a little sticky, some times even the heat riser on the end of the exhaust manifold will stick or flop around if worn. I like to pull all the spark plugs, squirt 2 or 3 shots of ATF in the cylinders with a squirt can, hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and then spin the engine over on the starter until I have good oil pressure, then put the plugs in and fire her up. The wrist pin is more of a deep knocking in the center of the engine, it is usually a pretty solid rap. The wrist pin goes between the connecting rod and the piston. Most wrist pin or rod bearing noises do not generally come and go. Did you have fresh oil in the engine when you ran it? That can make a big difference in running an older engine due to varnish and built up carbon deposits. I would pull a valve cover and see what the top of the head, rockers and springs look like, that can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine, weather is was properly maintained or not. The oil pump arm is the type of engine noise that can come and go depending on oil temperature and rpms. As I said it has fooled me a few times and I am always mindful of it, it's a cheap and easy fix and worth looking at, especially if you can't pin the noise down with a stethascope. If the engine never made noise until after it sat, it could also be a severally stuck lifter, once again clean oil will help, you could also put in a pint or two of top end cleaner like Marvel Mystery oil, get the oil hot and then change it again. If you never ran the engine hard, revving it or racing it hard before the noise then it is pretty doubtful it is a rod or wrist pin. You should find a good local mechanic to siddle up with and spend a few bucks to get an opinion before you react by pulling or tearing it down as it could be minor. Sounds like your a little late, but can still save some bucks by looking things over closely now. To repair a stuck or bad wrist pin requires the piston to come out of the bore. I hope I covered all your questions, tried to read your posts as I went. Good Luck!!

Birdman, you answered my question perfectly. I now believe it isnt a rod knock because of the reasons you spoke of. I believe its the oil pump arm and bad oil that was in the vehicle at start up. Sorry about not knowing the correct procedures for start up of these t-birds when they have sat for a long time, but after reading your post and DYI archives + t bird forums i now know what we done at time of start up was a major NO NO! I tend to think the new oil and checking the oil pump arm may make a huge difference, but we wont jump the gun. I will have a mechanic check things out, because i would be bad if the knock was still there after reassemble. Jeez, to me - you all are a wealth of knowledge and cant begin to tell or show you all my appreciation. Now i know rod knocks dont come and go, but bad oil and/or oil pump/fuel pump all makes a difference. Old oil and old gas was present at time of start up, but since then, the gas tank has been dropped and cleaned/ engine out on stand, and everything has been cleaned up. I would like to get the heads and lower end cleaned up and machined, so i will look at that next.
Also here are some numbers i found on the block and on another intake.
Intake#2 - C3AE9425 (3A8)
Only number I could find on block after exhausting search- numbers right under oil filter housing area/ bottom block
# OC5
C5
This was how the numbers were in this specific area!
I cant be missing the numbers, my son and daugher both helped as we scanned this entire engine and besides the 352-82, those were the only numbers we found! Hope it helps!
Terence
Thanks again