Can anyone tell me the trick for removing the upper and lower ball joints in a bullet bird? My manual shows a special tool that goes in between the studs of the upper and lower balls and spreads them apart. The problem is that I cannot find the tool and none of the garages in my area knnows what I'm talking about. Is there another way? Do you need to take out the entire arms? Thanks for you hellp. Mark
I used the same tool as mentioned above for my 62 tBird. I purchased it at NAPA Auto Parts they called it A BAll Joint removal fork it looks like a large tuning fork. If you email me your address I can try to send you a pciture of what it looks like
I have the mentioned Pickle Fork and have broken loose the A-arms from the spindle? (not sure if that is the correct word). My problem is removeing the Ball-Joints themselves from the A-arms. I believe they are pressed in and out but cannot figure out how to do it. Mark
If you are removing the original ball joints from the control arm, they are riveted in with three rivets. The rivets will have to be ground out. The new ball joint will come with three new bolts. ONLY USE THE BOLTS THAT COME WITH THE JOINT!!!!! Never use hardware store bolts and do not attempt to re-install an old joint that was formerly riveted in.
Thanks for the tip 62rdstr. I am going to remove both arms with the spindle attached. A local shop is going to press ou the old joints for me. This gives me an excuse to replace the shocks and get everything painted so it will be like new come spring. Mark
WAIT!!!!! Unless you know how to remove the coil springs, I would suggest you replace the upper joint with the control arm on the car. Don't try to remove the springs unless you know how and have the proper tool. T-birds are heavy cars and have pretty stiff springs. They have been known to break most of the coil spring compressors available these days. This is a fun hobby, but having a coil spring take your head off can really spoil ypur day. SAFETY FIRST.
My biggest problem is the inability to remove either ball-joint with the arms in the car. I have not been able to come up with a method or tool to break them loose. The spring compressor that I plan to use is a heavy duty one from Nappa. This was to be my last resort unless there is another way that I am not aware of. Ideas?
You do not have to remove the spindle to replace either the upper or lower ball joints. Take the above mentioned advice and don't mess with those coil springs.
To remove the ball joints without removing the spindle or spring would be a dream...BUT... I have been unsuccessful at removing the ball joints. I have ground off the 3 rivets from the bottom Ball joint, the top does not have rivets, and cannot come up with a method or tool to break free the old ball joints. I have used the pickle and hammered it in between the joints, but they have not come apart like the other joints in te fron-end have (tie-rods etc.). The ball joints, top and bottom, refuse to come out of the spindle or the arm.
Get someone to hold the fork with a pair of vise grips and get a BIG hammer and put some muscle on it. Sounds like they have been in there a long time and can be hard to break loose. At any rate, much easier than trying to remove the spring. Good luck, Joe
Joe - Your advice worked. I wound up and whacked it harder than I felt like I should and they did break loose. I guess you can't be timid with these things. Thanks for everyones help!! Mark
Great! Glad to hear you got it. Now, if your ball joints need to be replaced, chances are the lower control arm bushings will too. They can usually be coaxed out with a ball pein hammer and a socket, but if they are very rusty you may need to have them pressed out. They are about $10 or $12 at most any parts store. Once the front end is reassembled the car will of course need to be aligned. You are likely to find that the upper control arm shafts are worn. don't try to buy these at a parts store. They will be prohibitively expensive. Go to a Thunderbird parts dealer.They will be about $80 per side. Installing them will involve removing the coil springs. As stating previously, this is not a job you should do yourself. You have already saved a boatlod of money by doing this much yourself, now spend a little of it and let yuor front end shop do this job for you. They can do it much quicker and cheaper than a trip to the emergency room.
The upper shaft bushings will outlast several ball joints especially if you have the ones that you can grease (on my 66 there were plugs in them which you can remove and insert a grease fitting) I would go with the lower and upper ball joints and the lower control arm bushings. Removing the upper control arm is a mager operation.
